Books |
Park Avenue Potluck Celebrations: Entertaining at Home with New York’s Savviest Hostesses
Florence Fabricant
By
Published: Oct 13, 2009
Category:
Food and Wine
“Park Avenue Potluck: Recipes from New York’s Savviest Hostesses” was the most surprising cookbook I encountered in 2008. Despite its title, it wasn’t at all grand — the cover may have shown a silver serving bowl, but what was being served was a casserole. Truffles and caviar were the exception; the kind of hearty, homey food that men like was the rule.
“Park Avenue Potluck” was brilliantly timed. Although no one involved in the project could have predicted the economic crash, here were recipes made for hostesses on budgets. And because comfort food always is popular in hard times, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center — the world’s largest private cancer facility — clearly benefited from Florence Fabricant’s editorial savvy.
“Park Avenue Potluck Celebrations: Entertaining at Home with New York’s Savviest Hostesses” also seems ideally timed. Although no one involved in the project could have predicted the economic bailout and the return to big salaries and bigger bonuses on Wall Street, that economic revival means meat loaf is no longer the go-to entrée for New York hostesses. Entertaining is back; those who have great homes and greater social aspirations don’t need to be stealth hosts and hostesses.
And so we have recipes for Occasions: Valentine’s Day, Passover, Easter, Derby Day, Anniversary, July 4th, Children’s Birthday Party, Labor Day, Halloween, Thanksgiving, Holiday Cocktails, Holiday Dinner and New Year’s Eve.
Sadly, this leaves me out. On our Anniversary, we go to Papaya King, where we feast on skinny hot dogs on toasted rolls and a big gulp of the elixir of eternal life (cost: $3 a person). As for drinking to our old Kentucky home on Derby Day — considering that Lexington was the scene of my wife’s short-lived first marriage, we’ll pass. And so on.
But for those of you who do like to polish the silver, dust the good crystal and fill your rooms with friends, “Park Avenue Potluck Celebrations” can be quite handy. Once again, it’s for casual entertaining. There are no standing rib roasts or racks of lamb; indeed, the most interesting beef recipe is Short Ribs Bourguignon. (This time around, the meat loaf is “spiked”.) And, out of nowhere, salads are sprouting and grown men are crying out for green beans with diced bacon and wine vinegar.
There’s one “tell” that we’re in the new era of austerity — at least in book publishing. And that’s the photography. Oh, the place settings are all there, and so are the gorgeous rooms. But few of the platters or plates have food on them. Clearly, the budget for this book went on a diet.
One dish that is pictured involves eggs. Figures. But it’s surprisingly good. Like this…
Mozzarella-Tomato-Basil Frittata
12 large eggs
1/2 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled and sliced
1 pound fresh mozzarella, diced
2 tablespoons slivered basil leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the broiler.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the milk.
Pour one tablespoon of the oil into a very large ovenproof skillet, or use two skillets with half the ingredients in each. Place over medium heat on the stovetop and pour in the egg mixture.
Scatter the tomatoes, mozzarella and basil over the eggs. Season with salt and pepper.
When the bottom just begins to brown, place the skillet under the broiler just until the top is set — a minute or less. Remove from the oven and use a large spatula to transfer the frittata to a serving platter. Cool for 10 minutes, cut into wedges and serve.
